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Lady, you want me to answer you if this old airplane is safe to fly? Just how in the world do you think it got to be this old? Anon


Upper Wing III
4/10/2007

click for larger image
Adding a piece...

Normally the trailing edge ends at that tail rib, but I unfortunately cut my trailing edge short! So I have trimmed it to end at the first main rib. To remedy this, I was going to span the remaining gap to the tail rib with spruce, and shape it to match. As luck woud have it, I stumbled across a trailing edge drop-off in the parts-bin from when I built the lower wings last year :0) Amazingly I got this piece to line-up first time.

Foam

I clearcoated the inside area where the foam was to be placed. While the second coat was wet, I pushed in the foam blocks I had trimmed ready, the clearcoat acts as an adhesive for the foam. Over all of this will be Superfil instead of the usual fibreglass. I tried fibreglass matting on the lower wing tips and made a mess of it, the supefil is a reasonable alternative, maybe not as tough as FB, but when finished later with clearcoat, it's pretty tough.

All drag block holes were syringed and soaked with clearcoat using a pipe cleaner, reamed out, then the process repeated the next day. I die'd one end of each wire, placed in situ to mark off the other end then die'd it accordingly. Square 4130 .125 plate washers I had made were used instead of regular washers due to potential 'cupping' of the softer washers. In hindsight, the amount of torque applied to the wires i don't think warrants these robust washers. If I built another plane, I would simply double-up the regular washers.

Next, I marked out my trammel points at the compression rib stations, my trammel bar is advance technology: a length of 2x1 with nails in it  ;-)

Drag / anti drag wires

First, I unclamped the wing from the jigs so the wing was 'free'. Working from inboard out, torqueing was done with a  'touchy feely' type of approach. I hand tightened the nuts with maximum effort, then used a wrench for about 3/4 to 1 full turn, this moves the trammel point a little. Then went to the opposite wire and did the same, trammelling again to move the trammel point back, at the same time tapping both the wires at the cross-over point with a kitchen fork in order to achieve the same audible pitch  [equal tension is of course the objective].

Plastic tubing was then added as a friction/shim sleeve to the wires at the cross-over points, tied together with tie-wraps. I left the wing to sit overnight to 'settle' with these new pressures added to it, then tramelled again for good measure.

 


Foam...
Foam...
Trammelling the wing...
Trammelling the wing...

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11/30/2013
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